fields. Then the chain of mountains close by. I was soon marvelling at the singular way the houses were built, they were quite different from ours: the mighty huge thatched roofs which projected out a long way and on all sides hung down nearly to the ground, so that a hundred people might have had shelter from the eaves alone."

"At last I beheld with joy the towers of Bern and made my way over the most beautiful mountain pastures and roads, through avenues of splendid trees, till I came to the famous city of Bern. Truly I was greatly astonished by it. Bern, of which I had heard and read so much, to look over most of it all at once. For I was standing at almost the same height as the city and had at first to descend by a road to the Aar, then cross over a bridge and uphill again into the city. There indeed I was all eyes, stumped up and down a few streets and saw it was all of a piece, streets, colonnades, houses. Hm, thought I, perhaps I'm going round the same streets twice. So I'll enquire after the address of my dear friend St.

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It did not take me long to find the house in the Metzgergasse...I found my friend's mother in a rather anxious state. She told me that her son had promised to come home on Wednesday, now it was Saturday and he had not arrived... No, I've written that wrong, it was Friday evening when my dear St. returned from his journey, and on Saturday we paid a few visits and strolled about in the city. My friend would have shown me all the sights, but time allowed me to see only the outward side of Bern. Afterwards I was sorry that I had been in such a hurry [...] The countryside round Bern appeared to me very beautiful, particularly on the Luzern side. ... It's a splendid promenade for taking a walk. Pity that the grey fog hid all the most beautiful views from me...

General happiness reigned in the whole house. We told each other tales of our travels and spent the evening very pleasantly. In the morning we assembled to go to church, at the Minster. A young pastor Risolt preached a short but well-devised sermon. I was very struck by the diversity of fashions and turn-outs. After this we had our midday meal with the brother of my dear St. in the same house. Oh, oh, that was a princely meal! I remember much, but I don't remember ever being present at a meal the like of that one. In that house I enjoyed all imaginable friendship, kindness and comfort. But it was the only one in Bern, because apart from Helfer [assistant curate] Muesli

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I did not know a soul other than my generous Herr St., and for his sake his whole family showed me friendship that I did not deserve. [...]

That evening I went on to Hindelbank. There I should have had a look at the famous monument

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of which I had heard and read. And my friend had just recommended it to me. But I was in such haste and so full of my own thoughts that I forgot about it. Moreover, I would have had to look at it in the dark, because in the morning my journey was to continue at daybreak. I had ordered some supper, and at another table I expected to see some noble company, because it was laid and furnished in a costly fashion with several large dishes lined up. That will be a princely meal, thought I. Surely some princes or counts will arrive. But I was mistaken. I was not a little taken aback when I saw one carters' lad after another sit down there. About half a dozen of them sat down at table in their dirty smocks. Then they were served with whatsoever you can think of. The fellows gobbled it all up like Abyssinians. And the plates were changed continually. They drank plenty as well. But that was not what vexed me. I know well that a carter's belly is readier for food than a clerk's or a student's. But I was indeed vexed that all the time they treated the innkeeper in a very coarse manner, and put him to such labour setting and taking up the dishes, and grumbled to him about the food, and through it all carried on such offensive laughter and lewd talk.

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Gottlieb Sigmund Studer. [Chronik, p 398]


212

David Muesli (1747-1821) assistant at the Minster of Bern. [Chronik, p 398]


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The monument was made by the Saxon sculptor Nahl in memory of Frau Langhans, who died young in childbirth in 1760. It was thought to be a very moving work of art. Bräker did eventually see it two years later.



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