Johann Anton Sulzer, Oberamtmann of Kreuzlingen, that was the man, my goal and the object that drew me to Konstanz, though I knew him from only a few written words. So I left my lodging and let these nitpickers chatter on, to seek out my man.

Feeling rather shy, with fast-beating heart, hovering between fear and hope, I stumped along the streets. Very slowly. I thought it was too early, I might disturb his morning sleep. For Itzenblitz, Lüderitz and Markoni had taught me respect. At last I found his dwelling, isolated yet within the city. I plucked up my courage, went into the courtyard and announced myself. A maid opened the gates for me. A very attractive woman received me in an exceptionally kindly and friendly manner, although she and I knew as little of each other as if we dwelt at opposite ends of the earth. I very quickly thought I saw something noble in her that I can't describe. I asked her where the Herr Oberamtmann was. But she did not ask who I was, but smiled and said he was already gone to the chancellery in Kreuzlingen and would not be home until the evening. I thought despairingly, there, I've missed him through my own considerateness in delaying, and I will now hardly get away from Konstanz today, as I had intended. For it was Saturday, I intended to go to the church at Mülheim tomorrow.

I asked the kind woman, for I still had no idea if she were a lady or what, or who she was, whether I could speak with the Herr Oberamtmann in Kreuzlingen. Oh yes, said she, and looked sharply into my face. Now I trotted off again to Kreuzlingen and crept warily into the monastery court. I enquired for the chancellery and was shown thither. I announced myself. A very young and handsome gentleman came out, asked who I was and what did I want. "Nothing out of the ordinary", said I. "I'm from the Toggenburg; I've come this way on small affairs of business, and I have long cherished a great longing to make the acquaintance of Herr Oberamtmann Sulzer, of whom I indeed know very little, and because of that I've been glad to go a small distance out of my way. And so I ask pardon for my lack of refinement." "Aha, are you the Poor Man of Toggenburg?" said he. "At your service," said I. And from what I see, you must be the gentleman himself." "Yes," said he. "Well", said I, "so my wish is fulfilled and I'm not disappointed." "How so?" said he. "I was looking for a benefactor of mankind", said I, "and I believe I have found him", etc.

Herr Oberamtmann then received me with undeserved kindliness and generosity, led me to a neat reception room, gave me something to read to pass the time, and excused himself because he had some urgent matters to dispose of in the chancellery. He soon came back, however, and had the kindness to present me to the Prince Prelate

184

, or whatever his rank was.

I had the special honour to be present at the midday meal in the monastery, in the company of several gentlemen. I took great pains to converse without shyness in this well-disposed company, just as they requested. However, I have little of interest to set down of the conversation during the meal. When the table had been cleared my kind Herr Oberamtmann conducted me about for a while longer, to show me some of the noteworthy things in the monastery. But I did not see such valuable and interesting objects as I saw, for example, in St. Gallen, and my Herr Oberamtmann had to go back to the Chancellery. I however went back to the city again, to look around for a while. The situation is the greatest charm of Konstanz. Apart from that, not many fine buildings are to be seen. But still, the new settlers

185

have beautified the city a great deal.

A brand new lodging in the dwelling of my dearest Herr Oberamtmann Sulzer, never to be forgotten! As I said before, I had had the intention to travel on that evening, to Mülheim, to an old

184

Possibly Anton Luz, the abbot of the monastery at Kreuzlingen. [Chronik, p 368]


185

Settlers: Coxe, [v 1 p 19] says that he found the city fallen into decay on his first visit (1776), but much more prosperous on his second visit in the late 1780s, owing to settlers recently arrived from Geneva.



Contents