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himself, a wonderful recipe for travellers afoot and poor pilgrims upon the earth. He blessed the kind, obliging and good-looking landlady. How well it would be for any traveller, if he always fell into such hands, he murmured; he tried to compose a song in her praise and set her up as an example to all the dishonest unkind rascals of innkeepers who tyrannise over their guests.

So he stumped on all alone but for the company of his dog, and all at once came into Zürich. Although he had known it was a long way, yet he had imagined it still longer. For in the twilight he could still see the distant mountains beyond Zürich, and thought he still had them to cross, because he was not well acquainted with the district, and also, for once, was not paying them much attention, but strolling on deep in thought, till all at once he saw from a height the valley of Zürich, the river Leimath and the spires of the city. His heart leapt high for joy when he caught sight of dear Zürich for which he had longed so much. He tramped on into the city and straight to The Sword Inn. His first thought was to enquire after the residence of his dear Herr Councillor Füssli. He was much concerned that he should find his amiable spouse unwell, for he had previously heard that she had been much exhausted by a difficult confinement. But to his surprise and joy he found her in good health and spirits.

He was welcomed with extraordinary kindness and friendship, and so splendidly entertained that he was ashamed to stay two more days at this generous table and enjoy undeserved honour and hospitality. Here too he met some young gentlemen from Prussia who were travelling in Switzerland. It was a heartfelt pleasure to him to see Prussians again and converse with them, and they from the noblest and most philanthropic class, who were also staying at The Sword, and invited him next morning to breakfast in their room. God protect these gentlemen on their travels. Wherever they are I wish them health and all happiness, said he. Never before have I lived a summer in which I have enjoyed more pleasure of this kind, and more honour from strangers on their travels who visited me in my remote hermitage.

On Thursday 23rd July he spent the greater part of the day being guided around and shown the Wasserkirche [Water Church]

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and other notable sights of Zürich. At midday he was splendidly entertained by another distinguished philanthropist, whose rank and name has escaped him. He also paid a visit to dear Pastor Nef

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, whose acquaintance is still so sacred to him from the days of his youth. Then the philanthropic Herr Arne

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took him for another walk on the new Promenade, to the place where the late Herr Gessner had his favourite walk, and where now a monument is being erected to him. So he spent the day again overcome with joy that he, a coarse and unpolished Toggenburger, could be so well received everywhere and welcomed so generously.

And now once again to the home of dear Councillor Füssli, where he felt so good. What a happy, numerous family! His father, a honourable grey-headed old man, well cared for in his little room, still healthy, cheerful and content, seated on his armchair and walled in with books and writings and papers. On two occasions he spent an hour with this noble old man, and in his company was moved to tears, he is a true patriarch. God give such an old age to all those who do justly. 'Tis a truly patriarchal family. Blessing, unity and harmony, polite well-brought-up sons, a whole troop of amiable daughters who seemed to strive to outdo each other in good behaviour, who waited on the Poor Man with pipe and tobacco and other necessities so sweetly and willingly, a haughty peasant wench would have disdained to do it, all were busy, none strolling about idly, all as though inspired by one spirit. He pities Councillor Füssli for being so over-burdened with work, but he calls him happy to live as father of such a family,[...]

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This church was on an island in the river and contained the city library. [Chronik, p 351]

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Pastor Näf had been pastor at Wattwil and had prepared Bräker for his confirmation.

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Heinrich Erni was the treasurer of Füssli's publishing firm. The monument to the poet Gessner was erected in 1793. [Chronik, p 351]

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